Lazio’s Boho Borgo
Calcata is a little medieval gem that lies less than one hour from Rome. Its winding, ivy-ladden streets are filled with small-town charm but it is Calcata’s bohemian spirit that makes this borgo so delightful.
The town, which was abandoned in the mid-20th century due to fears that its tufa-rock foundations would crumble, was gradually re-inhabited in the 1960s and 70s by artists and hippies who were drawn to its natural beauty and laidback vibe. They opened art galleries, restaurants and cafes and on the weekends sell crafts in the streets and hold theater performances in the main piazza. The cultural association Il Granarone hosts exhibits, poetry readings, concerts and more. Nicknamed Italy’s “grooviest village” by The New York Times, Calcata is a wonderful place to spend an afternoon people watching and soaking in its unique, alternative culture.
From Termini take the Metro A to Flaminio, then the train from the Rome Nord station to Saxa Rubra and then a Cotral bus to Calcata.
Enjoy a tasty meal at Il Graal which has homemade pasta and delicious maialino, wander through the small alleys and enjoy a coffee or aperol spritz at the Bar Rock Caffe, whose classic rock aesthetic is contrasted with a panoramic terrace where you can admire the surrounding nature and feel transported to another place.
Address: Via Garibaldi 9
Stay at the atmospheric Casa sulla Rupa, a B&B and vacation rental that is nestled into a cliff and offers beautiful views of the valley below.
Address: Via Cavour 34