Discover the green neighbourhood of Rome through its best places to eat, drink, relax, and see as told by the locals
Bordering the famous, touristic neighborhood of Trastevere, Monteverde Vecchio starts west of the River Tiber, overlooking Aventino and Garbatella to the east. It is an oasis of tranquillity, away from the chaotic center. Yet, it is full of life, bustling with families and local businesses. Here, you are surrounded by people born and raised in this very proud, Roman corner of the Eternal City.
It is blessed with large, relaxing open spaces such as Villa Pamphilj and Gianicolo hill. Before it became what it is today, the area is believed to have been covered with vineyards, where the white and red “vinello” (light wine) typical of Monteverde, was produced.
When walking around this special neighborhood, take the chance to visit local businesses which make this area so unique as they bring people together and maintain the community spirit. Locals will be proud to tell you about how their neighborhood has been home to famous Italian and international artists, past and present, and to point you in the direction of their favorite places to eat. In fact, the restaurant and bar scene reflects its traditional roots but with innovative and vibrant options, and Monteverde Vecchio holds its own against other already established culinary neighborhoods.
Neighbourhoods of Rome
Best Restaurants In Monteverde Vecchio
Via Anton Giulio Barrili, 66
This traditional local restaurant sits on one of the main streets of Monteverde Vecchio. With a small area outside, it offers a pleasant location to sit and enjoy traditional Roman dishes as well as more adventurous cuisine including fish, burgers and unique starters.
Via Fonteiana, 18
Among the many bakery shops in the Monteverde Vecchio area, this one stands out not only for the quality of its pastries and savory food, but also because it is one of the few places to eat outside the Jewish Ghetto which follow the traditional kosher traditions.
Via Alberto Mario, 26
Since 1929, this family-run restaurant has been delighting the people of this neighborhood. Once inside you will be surrounded by elegance and traditions. Enjoy the area outside with a tasty Roman dish on a sunny day accompanied by a bottle from the extensive wine list.
Via Alessandro Poerio, 27
A few steps away from Villa Sciarra, Osteria Poerio (ex Mangiafuoco) is proud to welcome you with its menu of traditional Roman, fish food as well as creative dishes. If you are craving something different, try the “disassembled” courgette flower with buffalo mozzarella, anchovy sauce and Kataifi pasta.
Via Fratelli Bonnet, 21
Although easy to miss, being just off the busier Via Carini, this small but cozy bakery attracts locals as well as foreigners with its homemade American sweet and savory treats. One of the few places in Rome to find authentic bagels and pancakes, it is open from early morning to late afternoon.
Via Clivo Rutario 63-65
Art gallery, live music, yoga classes, as well as fantastic food, you name it, Clivio has it all. With its calm and relaxed interior and area outside, there is plenty of space to enjoy. Their menu is focused on refined vegetarian recipes and fresh fish accompanied by seasonal vegetables.
Foodie Fresh Market
Via Anton Giulio Barrili, 52
As the name suggests, here you will only find fresh fruit and vegetables, with special care to high quality products. You can buy it, eat it, drink it or take it away as Foodie makes healthy daily juices and tempting small dishes that every nonna would approve.
Via Anton Giulio Barrili, 56
Especially on weekends, it’s hard to miss this bakery with the queue outside and the crowds of people enjoying their fresh pastries and coffee. Dolci Desideri is a must try in the area and surprises its customers with savory as well as sweet aperitivo.
Best Bars In Monteverde Vecchio
Matière | Bar-à-vin
Piazza Ottavilla, 7
Set in a lively piazza, Matière will draw your attention with its big windows. Once inside, the back of the room is covered with shelves holding more bottles of wine than you can count. Enjoy a nice evening at this Bar-à-vin with a glass of wine and let the appealing menu seduce you.
Nananà con-fusion bistrot
Via Antonio Cesari 2
Nananà has a modern indoor space with retro chic details outside, open from breakfast until late. A large open space on the side is ideal to enjoy a cocktail, masterly mixed by the skillful and attentive barman. Don’t forget to take a look at the food menu, which varies according to season.
Via Lorenzo Valla, 38
This is an iconic bar in Monteverde Vecchio. Inside, a retro atmosphere greets you as people chat from one table to another like you would see in a borgo. Pay attention though, a secret door will take you to the inner rooms: an osteria, where chefs will surprise you with their culinary treats.
Al Grammelot Osteria Enoteca
Via Giacinto Carini, 39
Grammelot has an extended wine list which goes beyond the well known wines, but includes high quality and sophisticated bottles. The staff will be happy to explain and recommend one to match your selection from the diverse food menu. Just a tip: you must try their famous goulash!
Best Shops In Monteverde Vecchio
Via Lorenzo Valla, 40/A
Not just a simple jewellery shop, Lumina also hosts art exhibitions and jewellery classes with a focus on connecting people through art and creativity. Caterina and Sara, the owners, truly believe art techniques shouldn’t be a secret but instead a means to reconnect to old goldsmith traditions.
FEM Design Studio
This innovative space created by two businesses, Flovver and Madlen Ceramics, combines floral styling and ceramic art, both with a contemporary style. They sell their art and provide services on request, also organizing courses on these two crafts and how to connect to natural elements through art.
Maccaroni’s Retro-chic Gallery
Via A. G. Barrili, 10
Once a historical fruit store, this is a small but surprising vintage shop. Once through the original brick doorway, you are surrounded by quality vintage pieces as well as iconic fashion items. From classic boxing gloves to perfectly working music players, visiting is like stepping back in time.
Lo Spazio dell’Arte e Sartoria
Via G. Cavalcanti, 27
After studying abroad in London, Elena followed her dream in fashion and opened her studio where she expresses her creativity in designing and making unique dresses on request and for sale. She is passionate about using fashion as a means to connect and engage with people as part of a community.
Must-See In Monteverde Vecchio
From Piazzale Garibaldi on Gianicolo Hill, enjoy a 360° view of Rome. Don’t forget the traditional cannon fires from here daily at noon. Further on is the wall of the 1849 Constitution of the Roman Republic. If it is too difficult to read all 69 engraved articles, the panorama might be more satisfying.
Surrounded by Art Nouveau villas you will find the park of Villa Sciarra, encircled by the Gianicolense Walls. It offers 7 hectares of greenery, dotted with statues of animals and fantasy creatures such as satyrs who observe the park’s visitors and seem to protect the place that gave them life.
No visit is complete without strolling through Villa Pamphili Park. If you can’t explore it all, don’t feel guilty. At 184 hectares, it is the largest park in Rome. If you do plan to spend a whole day here, you can regain energy at the Vivi Bistrot inside the park, offering organic food and drinks.
Villas of Monteverde
Strolling around Monteverde Vecchio, you will see more Art Nouveau villas. These buildings with eclectic and romantic features once housed many distinguished artists. One that’ll get your attention is a mysterious abandoned villa in Via Poerio, made famous by the Italian movie “Magnifica Presenza”.