Explore Romeing’s favourite restaurants, bars, and sights in Rome’s most cherished neighbourhood, Trastevere.
Often lauded as one of the Eternal City’s most typical quarters, Trastevere has continued to attract both tourists and locals alike. From above, its myriad of cobbled streets and intricate piazzas form a detailed map of stories, like the lines formed on a grandmother’s hands. Look a little closer, and visitors will soon find that Trastevere is brimming with a unique mix of bars, restaurants, and sights certain to appeal. Wedged between the Tiber river, the Vatican, and Janiculum Hill, Trastevere truly is in the thick of it all! Split into two distinct sides of Viale Trastevere, visitors can find their ideal patch of splendour. On the Santa Maria in Trastevere side, tourists and international students mingle in and out of well-priced pubs and tavernas. On the other side of Viale Trastevere, to the south, a genuine Roman spirit breathes amidst cobbled streets and traditional osterie. With our guide, be sure to find that perfect destination for your sojourn in Trastevere.
Although more vibrant post-sunset, Ostiense also makes a very unique destination for a day-time walk. Street art is king in this area, with the best works to be found along Via del Porto Fluviale, Via dei Magazzini Generali, and under the railway bridge between Via della Stazione Ostiense and Via Pellegrino Matteucci.
RESTAURANTS / EATING in TRASTEVERE
da Enzo al 29
Via dei Vascellari, 29
Mon – Sat: 12:30pm – 3pm & 7:30pm – 11pm
An experience at da Enzo’s is about as close to a home-cooked meal in nonna’s kitchen as you are likely to find in Trastevere. Starkly-lit and strictly no-frills, this authentic trattoria keeps loyal patrons coming back for more thanks to its quality, rustic dishes. Think Roman primi classics including Cacio e Pepe and Amatriciana, as well as decadent meatballs in rich tomato sauce.
Piazza dei Ponziani, 7
Mon – Sat: 1pm – 3pm & 8pm- 11pm
If you envisioned sampling true Roman cuisine inside the warmth of a vine-clad villa, da Teo may be the perfect haunt for you. Specialising in white truffles and porcini mushrooms, the culinary staff skillfully prepare a range of hearty dishes suited to any palette. Also specialising in seafood-oriented pasta dishes as well as tasty zucchini flowers, da Teo won’t disappoint.
Pizzeria Ai Marmi
Viale di Trastevere, 53
Thurs – Tues: 7pm – 2am
Fb Page: Pizzeria Ai Marmi
When in Rome, do as the Romans do, which means abandoning any preconceived notions of sampling thick-crusted pizza; here it’s all about doing it thin! Perhaps one of Rome’s most iconic and recognised pizzerie, Ai Marmi has been serving tasty, no-frills pizzas for decades in its very casual and relaxed environment. A favourite of ours is the margherita with gooey buffalo mozzarella.
Via della Scala, 71
Open daily: 11am – 11.30pm
When conjuring images of Italian culinary extravagance, there are the staple contenders: mozzarella, carbonara, and of course prosciutto. Recognising the latter’s importance in the Italian antipasto tradition, la Prosciutteria captured a niche market, and has devoted itself to serving a decadent mix of cut hams off the bone. Sample one of their mixed platters, and couple it with a fine red.
Via del Politeama, 12
Open daily: 7pm – 2am
Ever thought of pairing spanish-inspired tapas with traditional Japanese cuisine? Well Coffee Pot has done just this, and it seems to be working. Set in an uber-cool, collective space featuring lounge and an outdoor patio for the summer months, this is the type of place you don’t want to leave in a hurry. Specialising in sushi and tacos, all that’s left is a drink from the extensive cocktail menu.
Vicolo del Cedro, 26
Open daily from 8am to 11pm. On Thur open from 12pm onwards
Launched in March in the heart of Trastevere, Eggs is an egg and carbonara heaven, open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It’s a small and contemporary bistro with a rich and varied menu in which the egg is the star of the show. Along with organic hen eggs, there are also ostrich, quail, and sea urchin eggs plus caviar!
Checco Er Carettiere
Via Benedetta, 10
Open daily: 12pm – 11:15pm
Rome is well-known for its hearty kitchen, and it’s holy staple-pasta trinity: Carbonara, Amatriciana, and Cacio e Pepe. Whichever is your penchant, rest assured that Checco Er Carettiere will deliver. Since the 1900s, this rustic taverna has been treating its customers to typical Roman dishes. Wanting something a little heartier? They also specialise in fish dishes.
Vicolo della Renella, 94
Mon – Sat: 7:30pm – 12am
While Rome is not necessarily synonymous with a seaside town, it certainly packs a punch when it comes to its decent selection of seafood restaurants. Trastevere’s Vizi is no exception to the rule. Serving indulgent dishes under the watchful culinary eye of Chef, Fabio Di Felice, pastas are perfectly paired with seafood, and the wine selection is sound.
Vicolo del Cinque, 58
Tues – Sun: 7:30pm – 11:30pm
Michelin starred, elegant, and aesthetically modern, Glass Osteria is the place you go to for that special occasion in Rome. With its menu often changing, diners can be treated to something a little more unique than what they may usually find in a typical osteria. Award winning resident Chef, Cristina Bowerman, specialises in seafood and beef dishes, one of which is the signature beef tartare, dressed with truffle. Vegetarian options are also available.
Piazza Mastai, 1,2,3,4
Open daily: 12 – 3pm / 7.30pm – 12am
Fb Page: Osteria Pucci
Serving typical food in a rather old-fashioned environment reminiscent of 1960s Italy, Pucci is lovable kitsch; and its food is fine too! Serving classics, in particular a hearty selection of secondi, Pucci is your consistent go-to destination for simple Italian cooking. On Sundays they often host ‘Brunch and Vintage’, which is your chance to sample brunch goodness and try in-house vintage gems.
Via del Politeama, 23-25
Mon – Sat: 7pm – 12am
Set on a patio, amidst draping vines and soft light, Taverna Trilussa is the ideal outdoor dining experience for a romantic night. Serving Roman classics since 1910, this elegant restaurant serves the usual primi suspects (we recommend the Amatriciana) as well as more original pasta interpretations such as Tagliolini with truffle.
Via di Ponte Quattro capi, 18 (Isola Tiberina)
Mon – Wed 7.30am – 6.30pm / Thu – Fri 7.30am – 11.30pm / Sat: 10am – 12am / Sun: 10am – 7pm
The historic bar Tiberino, located on one of Rome’s most romantic locations, the Isola Tiberina, is now a restaurant and bistrot efficiently serving classic, trusty Roman dishes always certain to please. During the day, stop by for a pick-me up coffee in Tiberino’s caffetteria, or an afternoon gelato at the gelateria, or aperitivo on a balmy summer evening in the cozy piazzetta.
BARS / DRINKING in TRASTEVERE
Piazza Trilussa, 41
Mon – Sat: 7:30pm – 11pm / Sun: 12pm – 3pm & 7:30pm – 11pm
Italy takes its wine very seriously, and at Enoteca Ferrara, this long-held tradition is celebrated by the glass or bottle. Housing a large collection of wines, as well as a stellar selection of beer, this is the perfect place to sample a quality drop accompanied by a range of tasty appetizers.
Via di S. Francesco a Ripa, 151
Open daily: 6:30am – 2am
Fb Page: Baylon Cafe
Baylon is to Trastevere, what Remo Pizzeria is to Testaccio, quite simply, an institution. Open almost all the time, this charming, modern hang-out is the ideal place to quite literally watch the world go by. Did we mention the stellar cocktail collection? The well-groomed bartenders will dexterously prepare a range of classic cocktails as well as some novel concoctions certain to entice.
Via dei Vascellari, 35
Open daily: 7pm till late
Fb Page: Niji Cafe
Rome has been seduced by the Speakeasy culture, so it was only a matter of time before Trastevere put its Speakeasy card on the table. This came in the form of quaint and uber-cool Niji Cafe. Beyond its large concealing door, the vintage decor enchants just about as much as the bow-tied barmen who skilfully work to produce your potion of choice for the evening.
Bar San Calisto
Piazza di S. Calisto, 4
Mon – Sat: 6am – 2am
Fb Page: Bar San Calisto
We’re not going to lie to you, Trastevere is not the cheapest area in which to play, except when it comes to Bar San Calisto. If you want to travel on a tightly woven shoestring budget, this iconic, no-frills bar/canteen is your ideal find. Due to its low prices, you will also find a mix of people who are open and eager to chat. Great selection of standard beer, wine, and bubbly.
Freni e Frizioni
Via del Politeama, 4/6
Open daily: 6:30pm – 2am
If you are looking for cool, you don’t get much closer to the definition than Freni e Frizioni. Located in a typical Italian building with a mini-piazza adjacent, this flash haunt is where people go to be seen. While Freni e Frizioni’s aperitivo buffet is well-known by locals, this place is best for its originally-prepared cocktails, which are all garnished, drizzled, or flamed with unique ingredients.
Bir e Fud
Via Benedetta, 23
Open daily: 12pm – 2am
While Trastevere might boast a stellar line-up of enoteca’s and trattorie which serve well-prepared wines, Bir e Fud is all about beer! With an impressive selection of artisanal, Italian micro-beers all on tap, this place is truly ideal for any beer aficionado wanting to give the wine drop a break for the evening. Also serving thick-crusted pizza, and a range of guilty-pleasure snacks.
Via Cardinale Merry del Val, 14
Mon-Wed: 7pm-2am | Thur-Sat: 7pm-4am | Sun: 12pm-2am
Step inside Live Alcazar – Trastevere’s historic movie theatre transformed into an all-new concept merging theatre, art, live music, stand-up comedy, performances and an original movie cinema. Indulge in aperitivos and after-dinner drinks till the after-hours accompanied by live music! The cocktail selection is broad, with bartenders mixing and shaking cocktails of all kinds, from classic to mixology. Definitely try their artisan ginger beer or their vento gelido – a green tea flavoured drink whose name derives from the herbs of their trusted herbalist.
Piazza in Piscinula, 51
Mon – Sat: 8:30am – 2am / Sun: 10am – 2am
Illuminated with chandeliers, embellished with fake grass, and decorated with a mismatched mix of gaudy statues, Alembic is like a vortex to Alice’s Wonderland for adults. Ideal for aperitivo each night from 7pm, but even better for some serious cocktail drinking.
SHOPPING in TRASTEVERE
Via della Lungaretta, 65
Italy is renowned for many things: fine food, impressive history, and leather! Carlo Cecchini offers a fine selection of leather goods: bags, belts, shoes, and accessories. This is your one stop haunt for that finishing touch to your Italian ensemble.
San Francesco Ripa, 16
FB page: The Butcher
Fine cut anyone? While the name might suggest a fine cut of meat, in this case, it’s about clothing. This hip Trastevere boutique delivers quality male and female clothing. Don’t miss the mighty fine selection of top-label shoes.
Via San Francesco a Ripa, 27
Specialising in a range of international and national brand accessories including Maki sunglasses, Marshall headphones, and even Crosley record players, this uber-cool haunt is the place to grab a roll of film for your vintage polaroid or an impossibly hip pair of shades.
Via San Francesco Ripa, 7
The heyday of the 60s, 70s, and 80s is alive and kicking in this quirky vintage haunt, which specializes in vintage clothing, accessories, and relics. Find psychedelic-printed shirts alongside glamorous frocks, as you prepare yourself for a retro-inspired step back in time.
MUST SEE in TRASTEVERE
Santa Maria in Trastevere
Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere
The reigning queen of Trastevere’s family of must-see destinations, Santa Maria di Trastevere is one of Rome’s oldest churches. First constructed in 221 and 227, the basilica is renowned for its unique and beautiful 13th century mosaics by Pietro Cavallini. Situated in Trastevere’s bustling Piazza Santa Maria di Trastevere, escape the crowds for just a moment, and step into this holy sanctuary of serenity and spirituality.
Largo Cristina di Svezia, 24
Open daily: 9am – 6:30pm
If the frenetic, vibrant streets of Trastevere get a little tiresome, step into a world of serenity at Orto Botanico and recharge! Situated on the fringe of Trastevere this vast garden is operated and maintained by Rome’s Sapienza University. With over 7,000 international plant varieties and a Japanese tea garden, this truly is the place to find your inner zen.
Museo di Roma in Trastevere
Piazza S. Egidio, 1/b
Tue – Sun: 9am – 8pm
Looking for some artistic refinement between your afternoon espresso and evening serving of carbonara? Step into Museo di Roma in Trastevere. Think paintings, sculptures, and even a touch of photography in this 17th century setting. A common theme permeating the works is typical Roman life and routines; ready to be the judge?
Proud to claim the title of the Tiber River’s only island, Isola Tiberina is a sight worth visiting more than once. Home to a hospital, this boat-shaped island is associated with medicine,a beautiful piazza and a fine cluster of restaurants of course! Located just south of Ponte Garibaldi, Isola Tiberina is undoubtedly the most scenic way to cross from the centre to Trastevere.
Situated at the top of Gianicolo Hill, the Fontana dell’Acqua Paola (more commonly referred to as the Gianicolo fountain) built in 1612 faces a picture perfect view of Rome. As the cascading streams run over white marble, be sure to revel in this fine moment of La Dolce Vita.