I’d been to Capri before… only to leave with the impression of a glamour island designed for shopping and little else. However, this was my first time in Anacapri, a part of the island just a short Vespa ride from the central glitz, although equally stunning and washed in signature Caprese white. Locals told me Anacapri is “what Capri used to be like many, many years ago”. Here, there are still plenty of luxe hotels, bejewelled sandals for sale and chic crowds, yet there is also an atmosphere of authentic island life.
We were met by a beautiful local girl, blonde hair falling around golden shoulders, who led us down alleyways, past a pasticceria – windows piled high with the famous torta Caprese, past old men slumped on benches watching the world through cigarette smoke and finally, in the heart of the centro storico, we came to our accommodation. From outside, all you see is a worn timber door; inside is as indulgent and refreshing as milky buffalo mozzarella. Acclaimed architect Giuliano Andrea dell’Uva designed this two-suite hideaway in the remains of the 16th century convent beside the San Michele church. Their philosophy here is ‘Questa casa e’ un albergo‘, which translates as ‘this house is a hotel’. And other than being served breakfast whenever you please, living alongside designer furniture, modern art and squeal-inducing luxury (it’s one of the best bathrooms I’ve ever seen), it’s true that Caprisuite has the intimacy of a private holiday home. The attention to detail is impressive. The level of taste is unparalleled. The mix of clean, modern design spliced with remnants of an ancient convent is breathtaking. This place has just opened so experience it before it becomes impossible to book.
Other suggestions in Capri:
On the water at the rustic and ever-popular Da Gioia Restaurant, Marina Piccola +39 081.8377702 www.dagioiacapri.com
E’Divino, Vico Sella Orta, 10/a, Capri. Incredible dishes, cosy and original setting in various rooms of a heavily decorated house. Cool crowd but reasonable prices. No reservations taken. +39 0818378364
Anema e Core. Sing Neapolitan songs from the ’50s with a live band and the famous entertainer Guido Lembo. It’s crowded, crazy and completely Caprese. +39 329 4742508 – www.anemaecorecapri.it