The bustling rione of history, diversity, and grit
One of Rome’s famous ‘Seven Hills’, Esquilino is an ancient neighbourhood with a vibrant and multicultural present. In Esquilino you will find a little bit of everything: plenty of history, as it begun as the home to the semi-mythical Ancient Roman King, Servius, and is dotted with ancient walls and ruins; religious significance, from the magnificent Papal church of Santa Maria Maggiore; 19th century Italian architecture, in the famous colonnade of Piazza Vittorio Emanuele; and a thriving food scene blending authentic local flavors with diverse international cuisines.
Esquilino is home to many of Rome’s immigrant populations, giving it a distinct and diverse atmosphere. The streets are filled with local markets and eateries that reflect the neighborhood’s global influences, as well as bookshops, galleries and cafès that reveal its connection to the nearby university, La Sapienza. As it’s slightly outside the tourist center, Esquilino feels more grounded and authentic – a reflection of the real Rome, both its history and the city it is today.
Right now, Esquilino is seeing a resurgence in tourism and international recognition after the death of Pope Francis, who flouted tradition by choosing to be buried in Santa Maria Maggiore. The burial has transformed Santa Maria Maggiore into a significant pilgrimage site, drawing thousands of visitors and adding a new dimension to Esquilino’s cultural and spiritual landscape. Francis’ simple tomb of white Ligurian marble, adorned only with the bold inscription, “Franciscus”, is placed in the lateral nave of the church.
Read on to learn more about this colorful and inviting neighborhood.
SIGHTSEEING
Best Things to See at Rome’s Esquilino
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II
P.za Vittorio Emanuele II
Built in the aftermath of Italy’s reunification, this piazza is surrounded by Italian palaces and 19th-century style porticoes. Walking under these grand rows of columns, which outline one of the largest piazzas in Rome, you will encircle the garden in its center. The garden itself is dotted with ruins; the remains of an Ancient Roman fountain, the Trophies of Marius. On a sunny day, the park comes alive, a showcase of a vibrant and still-local neighbourhood surrounded by history. The piazza is also home to a legend: the Magic Gate. Once the door to the grand Villa Palombara, it is said that an alchemist found a secret herb, capable of creating gold, right before disappearing through the door forever. He left behind a series of indecipherable symbols, carved onto the gate; other than that, all that remained were a few flecks of gold and mystery.
Mercato Esquilino
Via Principe Amedeo, 184
Open 5am – 3pm every day except Sunday
Housed in a sprawling indoor warehouse near Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, the Mercato Esquilino is a market that bustles with energy as locals and vendors shout, haggle, and weave through tightly packed stalls. The market is a colorful amalgamation of fresh produce, exotic spices, international ingredients, and imported goods from across Asia, Africa, and the Middle East, reflecting the diverse communities that call the area home. It’s a chaotic but fascinating glimpse into the daily life and global flavor of Esquilino. Bring a good appetite, and cash.
St. Mary Major
Piazza di S. Maria Maggiore, 42
One of Rome’s four Papal Basilicas, this magnificent church is the burial place for seven Popes, including the late Pope Francis. It is rich with decoration: lined with columns, adorned with gold and embellished with a mixture of Paleochristian and Medieval mosaics. The Basilica houses many important relics, including the Salus Populi Romani, a painting of Mary said to have been made by Saint Luke – so sacred and important that upon its arrival in Rome it was paraded through the streets for three days. For those who care more for art than religion, in the church you will find the grave of Bernini, one of Rome’s greatest sculptors, and Arnolfo di Cambio’s nativity scene – the first nativity scene ever in art history. The extravagant basilica, more than 1600 years old, is undeniably impressive.
San Vito Church
Via Carlo Alberto, 47
This small church curiously features two distinct facades: one made of marble and the other of ancient brick. The brick facade is part of the original Servian Walls, Rome’s ancient defensive fortifications, and is connected to the Arch of Gallieno, a remnant of the Porta Esquilina—the historic Esquiline Gate. The marble facade dates back to the late 15th century, when Pope Sixtus IV established the church. Offering a fascinating window into Rome’s layered history, this church also has a darker side; its “Stone of Iniquity” was used as a torture device against Christian martyrs.
Palazzo Merulana
Via Merulana, 121
Open Wed-Sun 12pm-8pm
A grand building in Umbertine style, Palazzo Merulana is a cultural hub, art gallery, bookstore and cafè. Housing mostly Roman and Italian artworks, the chic space explores 20th century art. The sculpture-filled lobby and its café is perfect for people-watching or studying, and after wandering through its dedicated exhibition floors, head up to the terrace to enjoy skyline views of the Eternal City.
Teatro Brancaccio
Via Merulana, 244
Teatro Brancaccio stands as one of Rome’s principal and most recognizable theatres, a cornerstone of the city’s performing arts scene. In line with the vibrance of the neighbourhood, it has played a central role in Roman cultural life since its opening in 1916. It hosts everything: from serious opera-musicals based on the lives of artists (the latest of these is Frida Kahlo) to a comedy-musical about a choir of nuns – and that’s just this season.
Basilica di Santa Croce in Gerusalemme
Piazza di S. Croce in Gerusalemme
Santa Croce in Gerusalemme is an extraordinarily old church, originally built in 324 AD as a chapel to house sacred relics. Before that, the site had many lives: an Imperial villa, an amphitheatre, and the residence of Helen, mother of Constantine. The Chapel of Relics still holds a copy of the Holy Shroud, pieces of the crucifixion cross, and thorns from Christ’s crown. The church reflects the evolution of Roman art and architecture — from its Baroque design to an Ancient Roman statue on the altarpiece, reworked to depict Helen.
Santa Prassede
Via di Santa Prassede, 9A
A tiny church, tucked away around the corner of its imposing neighbour, Santa Maria Maggorie, Santa Prassede is a hidden gem. Considered the masterpiece of Early Medieval Rome, its Byzantine mosaics are some of the oldest in the city, and were executed by artists all the way from Constantinople. It tells the story of the relationship between the two Roman Empires, and the diplomatic and religious ties which formed the early Church.
EAT
Best Restaurants in Esquilino
Trattoria Monti
Via di San Vito, 13
Open Tues-Sat, 1pm-2:45pm, 8pm-10.45pm; Sun 1pm-2.45pm; closed Mondays
Come indulge in this sophisticated Italian restaurant owned by two Italian brothers. Highly recommended by locals, the eatery’s best-loved recipes are its egg custard and truffle dishes. The traditional and authentic feel and taste of the restaurant will have you come back repeatedly. Make sure to book a table in advance as seating is limited.
De Zhuang Hot Pot
Via di San Vito, 15/16
Open daily, 11.30am-3pm; 6-11pm
At De Zhuang Restaurant, an exciting variety of menus awaits, each dedicated to the unique experience of Chinese Fondue or hot pot style dining. Imagine each table adorned with a central, steaming metal cauldron, inviting guests to partake in the interactive joy of cooking their own meals, picking and mixing different tastes.
Casadante
Piazza Dante, 8
Open Sun-Thur 8am-12am; Fri-Sat 8am-1am
Casadante is a spacious, open-concept restaurant. It is a trendy, intellectual vibe, and delicious food to match. The cuisine is primarily classic Roman, but the menu also features a selection of DOP hamburgers, plus an alluring wine list. Casadante is located off Piazza Dante.
Trattoria Morgana
Via Mecenate, 19-21
Open Thu-Tue 12.30pm-3pm, 7pm-11pm
A great place to get a taste of many rustic Roman specialties, such as trippa, coratella, and pajata to name a few. Perfect for family style dining to try multiple different dishes. The seafood pasta is quite a popular choice on the menu. And despite their offal offerings mentioned above, there are surprisingly great options for veggie eaters as well.
Pasticceria Regoli
Via dello Statuto, 60
Open Mon, Wed-Sun 6.30am-8.30pm; closed Tuesdays
Even if you do not have a sweet tooth, stopping by Regoli for a pastry is an absolute must. This pasticceria is famous for its maritozzi, a Roman pastry filled to the brim with whipped cream. Other delights include a custard-filled shortbread dotted with fresh strawberries, or the fagottine – “little bundles” of ricotta.
Gelateria Fassi
Via Principe Eugenio, 65
Open Mon-Thu, 12pm-10pm; Fri-Sat 12pm-12am; Sun 10am-10pm
What is a neighborhood without a go-to gelato place? This gelateria, open since the mid-1860s, has been a staple for many either visiting or living in Rome. The value of the exchange of gelato is well worth the trip to Esquilino. Unlike many gelaterias, Palazzo del Freddo has plenty of seating for everyone.
Forno Conti
Via Giusti, 18
Open Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm; Sat 8.30-3.30pm
Forno Conti is a bakery (and more) in the heart of Esquilino. With its minimalist, Nordic-inspired vibe, it offers a mix of international, Italian, Scandinavian, and French recipes. From Venetian buns and cardamom rolls to croissants, pain au chocolat, and a wide variety of breads, there’s something for everyone. Lunchtime features tasty savory pastries, quiches, and pizza, all paired with specialty coffee from Aliena, the renowned roastery born in Montesacro.
Trattoria Vecchia Roma
Via Ferruccio, 12B
Open Mon-Sat, 12pm-3pm, 7pm-11pm; closed Sundays
This isn’t just a restaurant: it’s an establishment. Started in 1916, Trattoria Vecchia Roma serves locals with very classic Roman dishes. The familiar carbonara, cacio e pepe, and amatriciana, are all features, but so are those less familiar for tourists – coda alla vaccinara (oxtail), rigatoni con la pajata (pasta with small intestines). Their porchetta (roasted suckling pig) should not be missed.
Krishna13
Via Foscolo, 13
Open daily 11.30am-3.30pm, 7pm-11.30pm
With Esquilino being one of the most diverse neighborhoods in Rome, it comes as no surprise that one of the best Indian restaurants in the city is situated right next to Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. This is the perfect spot if you are craving a break from pasta, pizza, and other carbs: indulge in their wide selection of Northern and Southern Indian meat, fish, and vegetarian dishes in a warm, and inviting environment.
Mercato Centrale
Roma Termini, Via Giovanni Giolitti, 36
Open Sun-Thu 7.30am-11pm; Fri-Sat 7.30am-12am
mercatocentrale.it
Present in Florence, Rome, Turin, and Milan, Mercato Centrale is an expansive collection of gourmet restaurants and cafès – a foodie’s paradise. They call themselves a workshop, and those making the food the artisans. Whatever you’re after – italian truffles, argentinian empanadas, chinese dumplings, neapolitan sfogliatelle pastries, trapizzino, a smashburger, or simply a gelato and a glass of wine – you’ll find it at Mercato Centrale.
Hang Zhou da Sonia
Via Principe Eugenio, 82
Open daily, 12pm-3pm; 7pm-11.30pm
There is no better place for this unique Chinese dining restaurant than in Esquilino itself, as the neighborhood is often nicknamed the “Chinatown” of Rome with its abundance of diversity. Look no further than Hang Zhou da Sonia to get your Asian food fix, as their extensive menu is enough to satisfy any palate. Sample their dumplings to start, followed by their raved-about Sichuan-style spicy chicken.
Marco G’s Osteria
Via Statilia, 12
Wed-Mon 12-3pm, 6-11pm; closed Tuesday
Marco G’s is the restaurant you think doesn’t exist in Rome anymore. Small and welcoming, packed with locals until the late hours of the evening, dishing out Roman pasta and pinse–a thick, almost focaccia-like, Roman-style pizza– with warmth and authenticity. It’s the kind of place where you hesitate, just a little, before telling others about it; but, then you think, it would be selfish not to share.
Bottega Trattoria De Santis
Via di S. Croce in Gerusalemme, 15
Mon-Fri 7.30pm-11.30pm; Sat 12.30pm-3pm; 7.30pm-11pm; Sun 12.30pm-3pm
A super local restaurant that combines thoughtful food with affordable prices. De Santis has a small menu, and you get the sense it’s been carefully selected to include the Roman classics, but save room for special ingredients and ideas to surprise seasoned locals. They’re not afraid to use the most rustic local ingredients, like Roman tripe and veal tongue, but neither do they shy away from the refined, in their tuna tartare, black truffles, and cornbread-coated anchovies.
La Pecora Pazza
Via Statilia, 35
A family-run trattoria, La Pecora Pazza (The Crazy Goat) feels like eating at your parent’s house. If your parents were Calabrian, of course. While there’s barely a menu in Rome that doesn’t have Carbonara and Amatriciana, the more southern region’s influence comes through in the n’duja (spicy Calabrian sausage), spicy gnocchi, and provola cheese. Fair prices, and everything’s homemade, which explains why the eggplant meatballs taste so incredible.
DRINK
Best Bars in Esquilino
The Gatsby Café
P.za Vittorio Emanuele II, 106
Open Sun-Wed 8am-12am; Thurs 8am-1am, Fri-Sat 8am-2am
The Gatsby Café is an intimate cafe and bar themed after F. Scott Fitzgerald’s titular novel, with decadent and playful 1920s style wallpaper and decor. This is another beautiful place to stop for a coffee or cocktail-especially in the evening when it turns into a jazz bar. The Gatsby Café is located across the street from Piazza Vittorio.
Circolo Vittorio
Via Foscolo, 20-22
Open Tue-Sat 6pm-2am; Sun 12pm-3pm and 6pm-2am
Circolo Vittorio is a restaurant and bar with a trendy, adventurous atmosphere. Decorated to feel like a chic stop along with a jungle safari, this is the perfect spot to enjoy a dinner date or cocktails with friends. The menu features traditional Roman and Mediterranean dishes prepared with attention to detail and creative flare. And don’t miss out on their specialty cocktails! Circolo Vittorio often hosts DJs on weekend evenings, if you’re looking for an exciting night out in an ambient environment, this is the place for you.
Quartino Enoteca
P.za Vittorio Emanuele II, 103
Open Mon-Sat 10am-12am
Just across from Piazza Vittorio, Quartino Enoteca is an elegant and welcoming wine bar. Shelves stacked high with bottles give the impression of a curated archive, walls lined with over 2,000 Italian and French wine labels. Alongside its impressive wine selection, Quartino offers a thoughtfully crafted menu of Italian classics, with a few international flavors and fusion dishes. With so many bottles and dishes to choose from, you should definitely ask their knowledgeable staff, who are always ready to help you find the perfect pairing.
Salotto Caronte
Via Machiavelli, 23
Open daily, 6pm-2am
A bohemian bar in an industrial loft, Salotto Caronte is all dim lights and urban feel. Dripping in style, it’s the perfect choice for a glamorous steak night or a late-night snack with your cocktails. The menu feels modern, the beverages like they come with a little drama. Prepare to take your time, drinking in the artsy atmosphere and a flawlessly crafted Negroni.
Materia Cafè
Via Andrea Provana, 7
Open Tue-Fri 8am-12am; Sat-Sun 9am-12am; Mon 8am-4pm
Materia Café, located near Basilica di Santa Croce, has a laid-back bohemian atmosphere. This café has a menu of healthy food options, such as avocado toast, a rice-based protein bowl, and many types of filling salads. Materia Café also offers a selection of teas and fresh-squeezed juices.
Masa Rooftop
Via di S.Maria Maggiore, 143
Open Mon-Sun 8pm-11pm
Perched on the rooftop of Hotel Major, Masa reinvents the classic Italian aperitivo with a refined Middle Eastern twist. Guided by the spirit of conviviality, Masa invites guests on a culinary journey through an elegant selection of small plates crafted by the chef. Whether you’re planning a romantic evening with panoramic views of Rome or looking to enjoy a night of sophisticated Oriental-inspired finger food and cocktails, Masa is the perfect destination for a truly memorable experience.
Enoteca Angelini
Via del Viminale, 62
Open Mon-Sat 11am-2pm, 4:30-9.30pm
A fourth-generation wine bar, Angelini offers the classic, timeliness enoteca experience in Italy. Wine is stacked to the ceiling. Tables sized only to fit a couple glasses and some taralli. A relaxed atmosphere, made for the 5pm aperitivo. Inexorably nostalgic and affordable, it’s easy to see why it’s an obligatory stop on the way to the opera theatre nearby. The staff are incredibly friendly, and will doubtless help you find the perfect glass.
Machiavelli 64
Via Machiavelli, 64
Open Mon 6pm-12pm; Tue-Sat 12-3 pm, 6pm-12 am
Machiavelli 64 is a bit of everything. A bubbly, open space, the wine bar is seriously dedicated to its craft, and even offers full-on private tastings and underground “meetings in the cellar” for those who want an introduction to wine, culture, and Italy. No bar is complete without its snacks, and Machiavelli 64 changes its menu every month, to capture the beauty of seasonal ingredients and ever-expanding creativity. Everything here is a conversation; the gathering of friends, the relationship between wine and food, and even the kitchen is open, so everyone can feel at home.
