Features

The girl who wanted a fairytale

Once upon a time I came on holiday to Italy and fell, like you, madly in love with everything. I thought to myself, this is where I belong; this is where I’m at my best; this is where I don’t have to apologise for being theatrical or dreamy or wearing heels every day or spending […]

Writer Profile: Penelope Green

An Interview with Penelope Green, Author of “When In Rome: Chasing la Dolce Vita“ If you’re wondering whether you can make it as an expat in Rome, look no further than Green’s award-winning When In Rome: Chasing la Dolce Vita for invaluable inspiration and insight. After living and working in the Eternal City, Penny moved south […]

You know you’re becoming Italian when…

The First Signs You’re Becoming Italian … It’s 10.30pm and you’re still deciding where to go for dinner. … It’s May but you’re still wearing stockings and closed shoes and a jacket because otherwise signore will look at you and shriek “troppo estivo!!” … Instead of responding with real words your reaction to anything in […]

In pursuit of pleasure

The other night I was invited to a friend’s house for an impromptu dinner. I arrived at his palazzo around 11pm and even waiting on the street I could hear Bellini’s opera ‘Norma’, the aching cry of Maria Callas wafting from his open shuttered windows. These balmy nights render Rome so smug, ever conscious of […]

Why I don’t agree with the Romans

I’m writing this from a villa in Tuscany, lying beside a swimming pool, still drenched in sunshine at seven in the evening. And as Under-the-Tuscan-Sun saccharine as this sounds, there is even the dulcet chime of church bells echoing from the local village and a heady scent of campagna. My skin is golden brown; my […]

So what’s it really like to date an Italian…

“Where does this myth come from?!” she shrieks, wheeling her bicycle down the cobblestone lane as I walk beside her. “Latin lovers indeed! Ugh! I feel like I should spread the word – Italians aren’t better in bed Maybe they were at the time of the Roman Empire but not in 2011!” I hope this […]

Change junkie: the 3 types of expats in Italy

Expats in Rome Profiles If you’ve read my column before, you’re no doubt accustomed to me gushing about Rome. I’m not just filling the page with what I think you want to read. I truly find life here cinematic. I make choices in my day based on whether they would segue well into an Antonioni, […]

Can a straniero remain in love with Rome after 27 years of living here?

I didn’t really need to meet Alan Epstein in person. The interview was a pretext. I could easily have written this article merely referencing his book As the Romans Do. It’s not as though the book has just come out either; it was published in 1997. But when I read his story of an American […]

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