A day at the beach in Ostia
Ostia, Rome’s iconic seaside neighbourhood, is the perfect destination for a day trip in the sun. Part of Rome’s southern district, Ostia has long been a popular summer destination when Romans were in need of a day at the beach. With a seafront 10 km long, and many different bathing facilities, Ostia is a common solution to the hot summer weather. Easily reachable both by car and public transport, you’ll want to make space on your agenda for an excursion to this waterfront.
Today’s Ostia is actually an extension of the ancient “Ostia Antica”, which used to be Rome’s harbour back during the Roman Empire era. In fact, a popular destination for history buffs is the Ostia Antica archeological site – which stretches out across 34 hectares. The site is one of the biggest in Italy, and is often compared to Pompeii’s for its history and size. With many different buildings standing, walking through the site is a unique experience. Thanks to the excellent conditions many of the buildings are still in, strolling through Ostia Antica has you feeling like you’re back living among the Romans.
However, do keep in mind that bringing adequate shoes for your stroll will allow you to enjoy the sights much more! Also, if you’re planning on reaching the site by public transportation, Ostia Antica has its own stop on the “Roma-Lido” metro line. Catch the train from the “Porta San Paolo” train station (the one right in front of Rome’s pyramid found in the Ostiense district) and take the train that is directed to “Cristoforo Colombo”. Once you’re on the metro, keep your eyes open for the Ostia Antica stop, get off, cross the overhead bridge, walk straight for about 5 minutes, and you’re there!
Nevertheless, if you aren’t too keen on archeological sites and are looking for a day at the beach, don’t get off at the Ostia Antica stop, but rather continue on and get off at any stop after you pass Lido Centro. Like I mentioned before, Ostia is a central hub for beach aficionados, so make sure you pack your bathing suit!
Once you’re off the train, the beach is never far. Ostia sits right on the water, so you’ll find a stretch of sand whichever way you walk. If you’re not sure which bathing establishment to pick, La Vecchia Pineta is one of the most storied on the coast, a historic lido known for its long wooden walkway. And if you’d rather have everything in one place, Marechiaro is a recently reopened spot where you can go from a morning swim to lunch, a sunset aperitivo and dinner on the sand without moving.
There’s nothing better than leaving the beach after a day in the sun, and going to grab a bite to eat. Whether that bite is for lunch, dinner, or aperitivo, Ostia is full of places that can meet your post-beach day mood. If you’re looking for a lunch spot, my favorite is definitely La Buzzicona. Serving typical Roman dishes in a fun and homey location, a delicacy that you absolutely have to try is the pasta con le telline. The telline are similar to the vongole, but smaller. At La Buzzicona they are fresh and delicious, and are brought directly by the fishermen that go out in the early morning to collect them. Thanks to their delicate flavour and small size, when they’re added to the spaghetti they are a wonderful combination that will have you forget about pasta alla vongole.
In case you’re looking for an aperitivo spot, you can either decide between Il Curvone, or Hakuna Matata; two kiosks located directly on the beach. What makes these two spots special is the ease with which you can lay back and enjoy your drink as you gaze out at the sun setting over the water; a truly great photo op!
When it’s time for dinner, skip the beachfront and head into town. Osteria Landi, tucked into Ostia’s pedestrian centre near the Pasolini monument, is a small seafood bistrot that has quietly become one of the best tables in the area. The menu is short and changes with the catch, built around local fish and natural wines, with a six-course tasting menu around €50. There are only a handful of covers, so book ahead. For more ideas, see our guide to the best restaurants on the Roman coast.
Regardless of where you decide to go, the spots I mentioned (both restaurants and bathing facilities) are only some of the many you will find while in Ostia. With a seafront so long, and a neighborhood so lively, you will have many a places to choose from. So pack your beach towel, comfortable shoes, and sunglasses, Ostia is only a stone’s throw away!
